Monday, December 05, 2005

Swiss chard

I've been getting really into swiss chard recently. Here's why.

It's tasty. I find the taste to be something like a cross between lettuce and (cooked) spinach, with a bit of Belgian endive thrown in. There's a hint of bitterness, but just enough to offset the very green-vegetable-ish taste of the chard. The bitterness adds character and sharpness to a taste that would otherwise be relatively unremarkable. It's also a taste that combines magically with other things (unlike, say, brussels sprouts—I love them, but they can hardly be used, as chard can, as a vehicle for other flavors). And the texture of swiss chard, when cooked right, is fantastic—a good dose of sloppy leafishness, but held together with a palate-pleasing soft crunch. It's sort of like the texture of cooked asparagus with leaves, if you can imagine that.

It's nutritious. Swiss chard is extraordinarily high in vitamins K, A and C, has loads of iron, and a fair bit of calcium thrown in. Check out this graph if you want to feel good about yourself while you're eating it (and if you're the kind of person who needs an excuse to indulge in the pleasures of bacon fat, as in my recipe for swiss chard below).

It's fun and easy to cook. I always blanch and schock my chard before doing anything else to it. This expels gases from the vegetable, removing an overpowering edge of bitterness; and it fixes the color a bright, bright green. And it can be done well in advance of the final heating-and-serving, a matter of just a couple of minutes in some butter with salt and pepper, if need be.

I made swiss chard as an accompaniment to a pair of roasted chickens for a small dinner party the other night, and it went perfectly. Here's what I did to the chard.

Step 1: Blanch and shock. Fill a large pot with water and plenty of salt ("It should taste like the sea," says Thomas Keller, and I believe him), and bring to the boil. Add the chard in small doses and boil for a minute or two; as soon as the color is a bright green and the leaves have just started to wilt, remove and plunge into a bowl of ice-water. Repeat this process until all your chard is done. Dry with paper towels, and proceed to the next step some time in the next few hours.

Step 2: Heat through in bacon fat. Cut some good quality smoked bacon or fatty ham into small cubes, and cook in a sauté pan until the fat is rendered. Add the chard, toss quickly until well-coated and warmed through, season with salt and pepper to taste (careful with the salt—the blanching will already have salted the chard), and serve.

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I like swiss chard as well.The boys and husband tend to turn their nose up at it when Iserve it,but they obligingly eat it anyway! I enjoy your blog by the way.

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